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Vitamin C Fact File
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Types of Vit C found in cosmetic formulations
L Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Ascorbyl di-palmitate
Strongest Action of each Vitamin C
Ascorbic Acid: Interacts with Vit E and other fat-soluble antioxidants, which are in the lipid rich areas of the cell. (Cell membrane) Together they bind to free radicals before they have a chance to damage the tissue.
L Ascorbic Acid: is a lipid (oil) encased version of ascorbic acid. (Usually Vit E) Is a powerful free radical scavenger (anti-oxidant) especially when enhanced by bioflavonoids.
Ascorbyl Palmitate: Tyrosinase inhibitor. By inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, a direct effect is had on the formation of the pigment melanin. Therefore is an effective active within skin lightening formulations.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Acts as a ‘Collagen type 3’ production booster. It appears to strengthen collagen strands, making them more resilient. This form of Vit C is more easily absorbed into the skin cell than ascorbic acid. This type of Vit C is converted by the metabolism into ascorbic acid plus the other important components such as magnesium and phosphorus. (Very important micro-nutrients). Recently a number of Vit C chelates with magnesium and other groups have been successfully synthesized. The Vit C chelates or derivatives are relatively stable in aqueous solutions so are suitable for cosmetic formulation. After topical application these chelates are readily absorbed by the skin and release Vit C promptly. Different from free Vit C, the chelates of Vit C are not acidic and are very safe to skin.
Ascorbyl di-palmitate: The most effective form of Vit C available today. Because it is oil soluble, it is readily absorbed into the active layers of the skin, as a powerful antioxdant to protect the cell membranes and improve the skin's resistance to the damaging effects of the sun. It has been formulated for the effective treatment of photoageing, pigmentation, problems and freckles and for the maintenance of a healthy skin.
Facts:
What destroys Vit C.
Smoking: Smokers and older persons have a greater need for Vit C. (each cigarette destroys 25 mg) 2 cigarettes will destroy the daily RDA of 45 mg). UVR: All forms of ultra violet radiation will destroy Vit C, but it is particularly susceptible to UVA (sunbeds) Stress: We use up more Vit C when under physical and emotional stress. Oxygen Free radicals Some Medications
To my mind, any type of Vit C is better than no Vit C and it is our best weapon as an environmental defense weapon. Vitamin C is critical for skin health. Skin conditions Vit C is best for: All forms of Environmental Defense |
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Collagen loss Thin skin density (fragile) Diffused redness Healing
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Pigmentation Skin aging
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