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| It was during research for my cosmetic chemistry book that I came across this article written by a Dr Hans Lautenschlger. It wasnt only this article that caught my attention but here was someone who had a similar mindset to myself about cosmetic formulations, I will be running a series of Dr Hans research and I believe that those of you I have trained in the Pastiche Method will be as excited as I am. Take the time to follow the links at the completion of this article. My personal thanks to Dr Hans Lautenschlger of KOKO Kosmetikvertrieb GmbH & Co .KG for allowing me to print this article. |
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Peptides play a major role in the development of anti aging cosmetics. They occur naturally and are quite often found as messenger proteins and hormones. Also their degradation products, i.e. the amino acids are key players in the field of cosmetic skin care. Not only peptides but also their degradation products, the amino acids, play an important part. There are oligopeptides and polypeptides. Oligopeptides consist of a few and polypeptides of a multitude of different amino acid units linked together with an amide bond. |
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Natural polypeptides with a molecular mass of more than 10,000 are also called proteins. They are classified into extracellular fibrous proteins of the connective tissue which are also called scleroproteins and globular proteins (spheroproteins). The group of scleroproteins e.g. comprises the different collagens, elastin as well as the keratin found in hair, nails and horny layer. Silk proteins also belong to the group of scleroproteins. Globular proteins are, among others, enzymes, albumin and hemoglobin. For a long time proteins have been used as effective skin care substances especially in collagen and elastin products. As skin care components, however, these substances are not able to perform their natural functions as due to their size and due to a lacking transport medium they are not able to find their way to the areas where they naturally occur. On the skin surface, however, they generate a slightly tightening effect as the amide bonds link with the keratin of the stratum corneum by means of hydrogen bonds. Additionally, proteins most effectively retain water similar to amino acids and hyaluronic acid. |
| All purpose use In technical respect, proteins like e.g. collagen serve as base substances for protein hydrolysates which, depending on the respective manufacturing process, contain protein fragments, i.e. oligopeptides or amino acid mixtures. Since the time when discussions about BSE and base substances gained from dead animals have been the focus of attention, protein hydrolysates have been extracted from vegetable sources as e.g. wheat proteins. From the protein hydrolysates, condensates with fatty acids are produced which also contain amide bonds and which offer excellent skin care features like skin tightening and moisture-retaining effects due to the fatty acid residues and the lipophilic properties connected herewith. Following the example of Mother Nature Furthermore, there is a multitude of natural products with a long tradition in skin care whose effects depend on their protein content. In this context, mare's milk, colostrum, the first breast milk and specifically rich in proteins and antibodies, curd cheese and other milk products should be mentioned. Also thymus peptides which are supposed to improve the immune defense system on the one hand side and stop the skin aging process on the other hand, still retained their relevance. They are still on the market as components of high quality creams for the mature and atrophic skin. Peptides originating from thymus, epiphysis, cartilage, liver, prostate gland, heart and brain tissue still are the object of intensive research. The Institute of Bioregulation and Gerontology in St. Petersburg (Professor Dr. Khavinson) has published a variety of different studies in this connection. These peptides have been synthetically copied and tested with regard to their use in cosmetic creams. Specifically reported in this context are their anti-oxidative effects, the increased skin hydration and an augmented oxygen adsorption in the surface skin layers. Also very well known for some time has been glutathione, a tripeptide which contributes to the redox processes in the skin and is used in skin care as a radical scavenger. Also dimeric synthetic peptides (cysteine glycine)2 belong to this specific type. |
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Hormone like peptides. Cytokines and growth factors like fibroblast growth factor (FGF), signal molecules which control a variety of different biological processes. They usually are produced in a biotechnological process with the help of gene manipulated bacteria and then liposomally encapsulated. Unspecific oligopeptides. Soybean oligopeptides and oligopeptides resulting from hydrolyzed milk proteins are effective on the skin surface. During the partial degradation process free amino acids are formed which support the natural NMF. Polypeptides. Poly-γ-glutaminic acid is an example for this substance class which has moisturizing effects. Aquaporins are proteins which enable the penetration of water through the cell membranes. |
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Complicated issue Thanks to Dr. Hans Lautenschlger, KOKO Kosmetikvertrieb GmbH & Co .KG http://www.dermaviduals.com/
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2009 Virtual Beauty Corp
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Considering the state of poor, inconsistent aesthetics education in many under-graduate schools here in the United States, we feel that it is imperative to offer as much post-graduate advanced education as possible. The bottom line:A skin specialist (esthetician, nurse, PA, medical professional) requires an advanced understanding of the underlying causes of skin conditions. They should be armed with enough information and training to perform safe, effective, preventative and remedial skin care without placing the skin into a more vulnerable state though poor diagnosis resulting in over-processed skin. Advanced technologies such as light therapies, microcurrent, chemical exfoliation and cosmeceutical systems appear daily at the doorstep of the esthetics and medical industry. They are barely recognized or properly utilized due to lack of understanding and education. It begins with insightful understanding of each skin cell and the biological effects of the new technologies. It also commences with the knowledge of developing correct skin management protocols that encompass the correct modalities.
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Consider the following: The status quo Many states require minimum training in esthetics. It is unnerving enough to realize that many offer a mere 250 hours in esthetics. This scarcely teaches a student how to perform a basic facial with an understanding of how to choose a correct product for their client! The present picture of education in the U.S. As an educator, I am a proponent of ensuring that we protect the future of this industry through increasing our standards in both admissions and substantial curriculum delivered by qualified teachers and state-of-the-art education facilities. This should begin through an interview process of prospective students so that they are properly qualified as future estheticians. Not everyone qualifies for becoming a nurse, Physician assistant or medical student. The need for standardization Returning back in history within the U.S., a post World War II war-torn European era brought brilliant skin therapists out of those countries and into North America. Esthetics requires self-regulating It is a dermal and aesthetic science and one that supports wellness, dermatology, plastic surgeons, and preventative medicine in the areas of pre and post surgical care, skin cancer, anti- aging, and stress reduction. Beauty therapists (estheticians) are viewed and honored in other parts of the world where they are recognized through a worldwide governing body called CIDESCO. This honorarium is barely understood in North America outside of its own circles. Are our current curriculums supportive enough to meet the demands of this sector of esthetics and spa? And what about skin care manufacturers? A more daunting issue is the fact that skin care manufacturers have bigger challenges on their hands when they are trying to sell their products. That is why education began to appear at trade shows back in the late 1980s and early 1990s. It behooved those earlier manufacturers to place emphasis on education if they were ever going to reduce their liability of selling to a poorly educated esthetician or medical skin specialist. It is also why a few leading industry journals were born years ago that brought credentialed and spa experienced writers to provide education in a media format. Furthermore, while there is always a high level of emphasis on sales in skin care companies, I also can also attest that without education, sales will plummet due to lack of product use knowledge and the science that surrounds it. Nevertheless, the market can be competitive. The esthetician, your customer, can soon be off looking for another product manufacture who offers post-sale support and education. We have to work together and not segment ourselves through competition and poor (or no) education. We have to collectively do business in a more effective and industry-supporting way where everyone is an advocate of the other, especially when sharing education. How are we going to meet the education needs of a growing industry? It is important that we collaborate with top educators to bring in unbiased education with proven curriculum and methods. It is also imperative that they possess the scientific background and teaching experience to deliver the material accurately and scientifically. And it is important that follow-up with continuing education become part of the plan. Is education profitable? Yes, it CAN be very profitable. Just take a look at the growing number of junior medical colleges who focus on medical careers and who have also placed esthetics in their course offerings. Take a look at the sales of companies who place great emphasis on this aspect of their company.
Perhaps its time for a company with education know-how to partner with leading skin care and education companies to offer a well planned post-graduate curriculum that brings consistency in information. Ultimately, it produces a more congruent, educated group of individuals who love their profession and want to make a difference. The benefits are far reaching and indeed support what is possible for our future. |
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2009 Virtual Beauty Corp |
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In a recent seminar series in New Zealand I was asked about the issue of keeping a professional distance from staff who you work with, sometimes for up to 40 hours a week.
This is an issue for every salon owner throughout the world and a difficult area within the staff management sphere. Exactly what is the correct distance between authority and friendship, between friend and boss? Unfortunately, there isnt one simple correct way of operating a salon where staff are concerned and what works beautifully in one salon, may be a total mess in another.
However, here are a few suggestions that I believe can help salon owners and managers to maintain a culture of co-operative, friendly professionalism with all staff.
I have long maintained that one of the keys to building a successful salon is to develop the correct salon culture. A culture where staff are recognised, challenged, supported and rewarded for their hard work. These cultures perceive on-going training as a privilege not a chore and see performance reviews as a chance to impress and grow rather than a time to be told they are not good enough.
A culture of diligence and teamship, of trust and honesty, of fun and accomplishment. To have such a culture salon owners need to supply their staff with very clear, achievable and measurable expectations. Everything from behavioural standards, dress regulations, performance targets, defined procedures, salon rules and customer service expectations.
With these expectations in place and reviewed regularly, management can relax their role of overseer to some degree because everyone clearly understands the parameters of their role.
There are clearly defined rules to fall back on that both management and the staff member know exist whenever a performance or behavioural issue arises. This reduces the amount of angst when dealing with staff members that you might consider as a friend.
Without such clearly defined position descriptors management needs to be far more overbearing and diligent in their methods of maintaining performance standards. Less friendly and far more boss-like.
That said, how friendly should staff be allowed to behave with management?
Certainly, most staff know their bosss preferred brand of coffee, the names of their spouse and children, what car they drive, their favourite snack foods, and probably a whole lot more that they didnt even realise. However, they should not privy to their private life, their financial status, their recreational pursuits or their social life. In fact, I suggest to salon owners to be very careful about the amount of information staff know about you.
Whether it is true or not most staff believe that because you own a salon you have plenty of money. They see the money going into the till but dont get to pay the huge rent bill, the product account, the wages, superannuation or insurances. A salon owner I work with was actually confronted by a senior therapist for a substantial pay rise under the misunderstanding the salon was making lots of money.
I suggested that the salon owner sign a cheque for the rent, another for the wages, another for the product suppliers but leave out the amounts. We asked the therapist in question to fill in the amounts from invoices and mail them off. We did this a few days before we were to negotiate her pay request. It was an eye opener for her and subsequently her demands were drastically reduced. Now I am not saying staff need to pay all your bills, however my point is, that rightly or wrongly, staff believe there is wealth in running a salon.
So I have a few suggestions for salon owners to dispel some of these misperceptions.
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Dont flaunt that you have lots of money by flashing a wallet full of cash around.
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Dont ever take money from the till and put it in your pocket. They will think it is easy to do and that you do not have strict control over the salon finances.
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Dont go out socialising or drinking with staff on a regular basis. This is far too familiar and often things are said in a social setting that are regretted later. It can difficult for staff (especially junior staff) to delineate between behaviour acceptable in a social encounter with the expectations of behaviour in the salon.
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I love nice cars but I drive a beat up old Holden to the salon, as much because it gets knocked around in the car park as for the fact I dont need to flaunt my wealth to staff. I want them working hard to give the very best service to our clients not because they think they are making me rich.
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Dont invite staff to your home for functions. They dont need to compare how you live to their own residences.
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Dont allow friends and family members to simply waltz in and receive free services. Make them pay staff rates even if you refund that money at a later stage. Logically, they will ask why cant their friends and family be offered the same privileges?
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Dont take stock off your shelves for home use in front of staff. Either pay for it or do it after hours. They will see this and think if it is OK for you then it should be OK for them.
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Dress appropriately when you visit the salon. That way salon dress standards will remain high and staff will also dress well if they visit the salon on days off.
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Have your own treatments after hours. Its all about staff fulfilling their roles completely during their working day. Cleaning, education and client follow up is more important than waxing each others legs during working hours.
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Attend lots of extra education and training yourself as an example to staff.
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Be generous with praise, thanks and rewards. However, be very clear about what will happen if there is ever a serious breach of salon protocols such as theft and be prepared to act on any such breaches decisively.
Every salon owner will have a different way of dealing with staff.
Thats human nature. However, whenever there are issues with discipline it is always far more difficult to deal with friends than employees.
There is no magic line that can be drawn in the sand that salon owners should never cross. In fact, it is inevitable that every salon owner will face the dilemma of being too close to a staff member and one day having to discipline them.
The answer is to decide on very clear standards of performance and behaviour, make sure that they are understood and agreed to by all staff and then enforced as praise or discipline. Be sure to maintain very strict standards of behaviour for yourself in the salon. It is almost impossible to expect staff to behave a certain way if you ignore the very same rules. Be an example of the sorts of behaviours and performance standards you expect from your staff and they will follow your lead.
Friends of mine stopped at my doorway recently and took off their shoes. They had watched me do it and respectfully followed suite. They had been to my residence several times and had observed that this was the acceptable behaviour in my home. In many ways, your staff pick up on your example in the salon and will settle for behaviours at your lowest expectation levels.
As an owner you manage staff not simply let them proceed through their life in your salon without direction. It is vital that you know exactly what you want that direction to be and express it clearly to all staff. If this is done the blurry line between friendliness and supervisor can lean more towards friendly more often.
Paul Carbis is regarded worldwide as one of the foremost experts in the area of salon management.
For details of seminars and consultation services, he can be contacted
by email :
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
or phone on 0061 418 983 145. Website: www.paulcarbis.com.au
