Using skin colour to predetermine the risk of scarring and pigmentation with electrolysis:

The Pastiche Method uses a combination of the Fitzpatrick skin colour classification, the Les method of skin laser risk classification and the knowledge and experience of 25 years of electrology. Florence Barrett, Company director of the post graduate training facility Pastiche Resources Ltd shares her experience of working with the coloured skin of Indian, Maori, Asian and Polynesian races.

Fitzpatrick denotes 6 skin types (classification) 6 skin colours, & reaction to sun exposure

The Lancer Ethnicity Scale (LES) is system to calculate healing efficacy, times and risks for laser & dermal peels

Pastiche Method of analysing potential risks of pigmentation and/or scarring using electrolysis blend-method or pulsed-light laser for hair removal. Including mid to full epidermal peels.

Fitzpatrick Skin Classification

Skin colour, tone and ethnic origin

Burn time

LES Skin classification

Healing & and risk factors

Pastiche Skin Classification

Potential pigmentation

Potential scarring

Type 1

Very white & freckled (extremely fair skin, blonde hair, blue/ green eyes) Celtic, English, Northern European (general)

Always burns and never tans

LES Type 1

Very low risk

Flo Type 1

Low risk but not impossible, if slow to heal. Cause Vit C&A deficiency, UVR. Use Vit A & C creams.

Higher, if slow to heal. Cause Vit C&A deficiency, UVR. Use Vit A & C creams.

Type 2

White fair skin, (sandy to brown hair, green/brown eyes) Nordic (1-2) Ashkenazi Jewish, Native American (including Inuit)

Usually burns, tans with difficulty

LES Type 2

Low risk

Flo Type 2

Some risk but not impossible, if slow to heal. Cause Vit C&A deficiency, UVR. Use Vit A & C creams after care

Higher risk, if slow to heal.

Cause Vit C&A deficiency, UVR.

Use Vit A & C creams after care

Type 3

White to olive skin (medium skin, brown hair, brown eyes)

Sephardim Jewish, Central, Eastern European, Southern European, Mediterranean, Maori NZ

Sometimes burns but will tan

LES Type 3

Moderate risk

Flo Type 3

Higher risk client must avoid all UVR. Taking care with post treatment healing & protection using Vit A & C based cream and sun block.

Greater risk, client must avoid all UVR Taking care with post treatment healing & protection using Vit A & C based cream & sun block

Type 4

Olive to light brown (medium skin, brown hair, brown eyes)

Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese,

Filipino, Polynesian, Central / South American Indian

Rarely burns

LES Type 4

Significant risk

Flo type 4

Much greater risk, treatment times & probing spaces must be further apart. Lower frequency must be used. No UVR, use Vit C & A cream & sun block.

Very significant risk, treatment times & probing spaces must be further apart. Lower frequency must be used. No UVR, use Vit C & A cream & sun block.

Type 5

Dark brown (dark brown skin, black hair, black eyes) Central, East, West African, Eritrea and Ethiopian, North African, Middle East Arabic

Very rarely burns

LES Type 5

Considerable risk

Flo type 5

Considerable risk, treatment not advised unless therapist has significant experience & skill with coloured skins.

Considerable risk, treatment not advised unless therapist has significant experience & skill with coloured skins.

Type 6

Black (black skin, black hair, black eyes)

Almost never burns

Les Type 6

Very high risk

Flo type 6

Treatment not advised

Treatment not advised

A greater understanding about skin structure and function will give the beauty therapist more knowledge in determining the potential risks involved with the procedures that involve the epidermis and dermis. In particular melanogenisis (formation of the pigment melanin) and the full structure of the dermis and its appendages. Read the articles on skin structure and function and the articles written by Florence Barrett & Dr Des Fernandez about melanin formation to extend your knowledge and understanding.